BIDDEFORD — After nearly a decade of bringing Mediterranean classics, pizza and more to patrons in Old Orchard Beach at his restaurant, Jimmy the Greek’s, owner Jim Albert has brought his culinary prowess to Biddeford in a move that might just make you say, “moo.”

Just over a month after closing his South Portland Jimmy the Greek’s location at the Maine Mall, Albert opened Biddeford’s latest eatery, Cowbell Burger Bar, just two weeks ago, and has already begun to make an impact in the growing downtown culinary scene.

“I was intrigued with the space. Biddeford gets a bad rap sometimes. There’s definitely a professional crowd in the downtown area. I’m very impressed with the crowd that I’ve seen that frequents the restaurant,” Albert said.

“We’ve exceeded our early expectations. Certainly still working out some bugs but our systems are much better than last week,” Albert said, referencing the restaurant’s first major hurdle: handling the crowd of the La Kermesse Franco-Americaine Festival, held last week.

The 2,500-square-foot restaurant’s opening is just another step in the right direction as Biddeford continues to undergo a cultural and economic Renaissance, Albert said.

“Having grown up in this area, I’ve seen more progress in the last couple years than I’ve seen in decade. I think this is the beginning of a lot of good things to happen downtown. In any situation when you’re re-gentrifying a downtown district, there are several catalysts,” he said. “You have the artists, you have a lot of urban dwellers … in search of greener pastures.”

And what greener pasture than Cowbell, one of Main Street’s only American-influenced establishments?

“Who doesn’t like a burger? And pair it with a local craft (beer)?” Albert asked, describing his approach to the restaurant’s theme as “simpler” and “more elegant” than his Jimmy the Greek’s establishment two towns over.

For food, Albert said Cowbell currently offers 25 different burgers – in addition to a burger “bar,” in which customers can design their own – on its menu along with 25 local draught beers, but options abound with other small plates, including classic hot wings. The restaurant also boasts a full bar, bottled beer and wine.

Try the “Decadence,” a bacon-wrapped grilled cheese sandwich, or the street tacos with homemade kimchi, a Korean side dish made from fermented vegetables. Have one too many local craft beers and you might find yourself ordering the “Crazy Ex,” a burger Albert says is “a little hot and a little sweet.”

Discussing his approach to recipe development and menu testing, Albert said he took a “grassroots” approach when creating the dishes served at Cowbell. Albert said he would test recipes at Jimmy the Greek’s and serve them to his most loyal customers, getting feedback along the way.

Albert also said he’s experimenting with unique flavors and ingredients, such as ghost pepper cheese, to add flair to the menu. And he’s making the effort to source locally when possible, such as using onion rolls from Reilly’s Bakery and serving an extensive selection of beers from Banded Horn Brewing Company.

“We’re definitely paying homage to those around us,” Albert said.

Albert said he is grateful to the residents of Biddeford who have welcomed him, noting that Mayor Alan Casavant and several other city officials attended the restaurant’s “soft opening” two weeks ago. He also said he is excited to see the downtown return to its former glory, saying he thinks Cowbell can be part of that revitalization.

“In my short tenure in Biddeford, I’ve met many wonderful people,” Albert said. “I see the passion in the community and I think a lot of people remember when downtown Biddeford was a very vibrant district and would like to see it return to that era.”

— Staff Writer Alan Bennett can be contacted at 282-1535, ext. 329 or abennett@journaltribune.com.