Fresh peas in their pods are one of nature’s limited releases, with a window of availability so fleeting that being in the right place at the right time to buy them is a bona fide thrill. They’re available at the market for just a few weeks in the late spring and early summer, and they need to be eaten (or preserved by freezing or canning) as soon as possible after picking to capture their sweet tenderness, as their sugars quickly turn to starch with storage.

This recipe is meant to make the most of that precious opportunity. Freshly shucked peas are so tender, there is no need to cook them at all. Simply tossing them raw with fresh herbs, thinly sliced red onion, good-quality olive oil, lemon juice and zest, and shavings of sharp cheese yields a salad so compellingly tasty and unique, I haven’t been able to stop thinking about it since I first made it.

The salad is essentially wilt-free, too, and it holds up well as part of a picnic or cookout spread, so it can be made a few days ahead. (That said, for maximum sweetness, try to eat it as soon as possible.)

I used parsley and dill in mine, but any tender herbs would be nice – basil and mint would be a good combo, too. And though I love the intensity of the pecorino Romano cheese here, parmesan or an aged Manchego would work well instead. Once you try it, I know you’ll want to make it again and again, so I am happy to report that while I created this salad to make the most of fresh peas, it need not be limited to that sliver of time – it works well with frozen, defrosted peas, too.

Pea salad with pecorino. During the brief window you can buy fresh, tender local peas, no cooking is required. Photo for The Washington Post by Tom McCorkle

Fresh Pea Salad With Red Onion and Pecorino Romano

Total time: 25 mins, including time to shuck the peas

4 servings

Freshly shucked peas are so tender there is no need to cook them at all. Here, raw sweet peas are simply tossed with fresh herbs, thinly sliced red onion, olive oil, lemon juice and zest, and shavings of sharp cheese for a memorably delicious and unique salad that’s ideal for a picnic or cookout.

You could sub any tender herb (basil and mint would be nice), or use parmesan or aged manchego instead of pecorino Romano. And while this salad was created to make the most of fresh peas, it need not be limited to the small window of time in the spring when they’re available – it works well with frozen, defrosted peas, too.

Make ahead: The salad can be assembled up to the point of adding cheese, and refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 3 days. Let the salad come to room temperature before serving.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups (10 ounces) shucked fresh English peas (from about 2 pounds unshucked; see headnote)

1/4 cup very thinly sliced red onion

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup (3/4 ounce) thinly shaved pieces pecorino Romano cheese (may also use parmesan cheese)

DIRECTIONS

Rinse the peas and pat them dry. Place them in a large bowl with the onion, parsley, dill, oil, lemon zest and juice, salt and pepper. Toss to combine and let sit so the flavors meld, about 15 minutes. When ready to serve, gently toss in the cheese to combine.

Nutrition: 144 Calories (heaping 1/2 cup): 12g Carbohydrates, 5mg Cholesterol, 9g Fat, 4g Fiber, 6g Protein, 2g Saturated Fat, 220mg Sodium, 4g Sugar