Not a true bisque, not a true chowder, and yet, not a true stew either. But the recipe below does have all the taste and the consistency of all three. The smokiness of both the cheddar and oysters makes this summertime treat perfectly balanced without additional salt and pepper.

For those who like a little heat in the heat, add a pinch or two of red pepper flakes before pulsing. Otherwise, enjoy this simple, inexpensive yet classy presentation of what we New Englander’s are known for: chowder … or stew … or bisque?

Smoky, Cheesy Oyster Bisque

1 large potato, peeled and cubed

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 teaspoon minced garlic in oil

1/4 cup diced onion

1 cup light cream

4 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, shredded or diced

8-ounce can smoked oysters, drained

Boil potatoes, covered, with 2 inches of water, on high, until soft ”“ about 15-20 minutes. Meanwhile, over medium heat, melt butter in a small skillet. Add the garlic and onions, and cook until onions are softened, stirring often.

When the potatoes are cooked, carefully transfer to the bowl of a food processor or into a blender along with the onion/garlic mixture and light cream. Pulse until smooth, about 10-15 seconds on high.

Place back into same pot, along with the cheddar cheese. Scald over low heat until thickened slightly, about 8 minutes. Add the oysters and continue scalding for another 2-3 minutes, stirring frequently, or until oysters are heated through. Remove and serve.

Makes two servings.

— Chef Jim Bailey is The Yankee Chef and an authority on New England food and its history. He is a respected food columnist from Maine and is married with four children. You can email questions or comments to theyankeechef@aol.com and visit theyankeechef.blogspot.com.