Cod has been a New England staple since time immemorial, having been enjoyed by American Indians and expounded upon, culinarily, by the influx of Europeans. Creamed cod is an age-old recipe that deserves to be just subtly “Yanked.”

I think you will find my recipe a perfect example of leaving well enough alone on one hand, yet minimally tweaking for today’s palate.

NEW ENGLAND

ESCALLOPED COD

6 slices pumpernickel or rye bread

1 1/2 pound cod fillets, cut into 2-inch pieces

3 cups milk, divided

1 bay leaf

Pinch ground nutmeg

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

3/4 cup flour

6 ounces mild white cheddar cheese, shredded or diced

2 pounds potatoes, cooked, cooled and cut into 1-inch cubes

6 ounces smoked ham, diced

1 cup frozen peas and/or carrots

Butter-flavored cooking spray

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put bread on a baking sheet and bake 10-15 minutes, or until dried; remove to cool.

Meanwhile, place the cod in a medium saucepan with 1 1/2 cups of milk and a bay leaf so that the fish is covered. Bring to a simmer over medium heat. When bubbling, reduce heat to low and simmer for 4-5 minutes, or until the fish flakes. Remove from heat. Using a slotted spoon, place the fish on a plate and set aside.

Remove the bay leaf from the pan, and add the nutmeg, salt and pepper to the remaining milk, whisking well. Return to heat and bring to a boil over medium heat. Meanwhile, whisk 3/4 cups of the hot milk with the flour, then add it back into the saucepan. When it starts to boil, add the cheese, whisking well. Remove from heat and continue whisking until cheese has completely melted, and then set aside.

Add cooked potatoes to an 11-by-7-inch baking pan. Add the ham over the top along with the vegetables. Top with the cooked cod and pour milk/cheese mixture over the top evenly. Crush dried bread in a bowl, spraying with cooking spray to wet well. Evenly top the “casserole” with bread crumbs and bake 30-35 minutes, or until the bread topping is well browned and the dish is bubbling.

— Chef Jim Bailey is The Yankee Chef and an authority on New England food and its history. He is a respected food columnist from Maine and is married with four children. You can email questions or comments to theyankeechef@aol.com and visit theyankeechef.blogspot.com.