WELLS — One subtle gesture from her master ”“ a nod of the head, a tilt of the hips ”“ and Lilly knew exactly what to do.

The black-and-white specked sheep dog bounded across the grass, flanking a cluster of sheep that had gathered near the far end of the fence, spurring them into action. The woolly animals changed course and galloped toward Joe Grady, who held the crowd in thrall with a seemingly telepathic command of nature’s creatures.

The sheep stopped in front of the fence to Grady’s left, poking their noses out at the smiling faces of children and their families. The rolling fields of the Wells Reserve at Laudholm echoed with applause.

The 11th annual Punkinfiddle was officially under way.

Held each year to celebrate estuaries and agrarian life, the event has grown into one of the top fundraisers for the reserve, consistently filling the site’s coffers by offering a slew of events geared toward those with a taste for barnyard animals and rustic farm life. History tours, scavenger hunts, wheelbarrow races and butter churning were among the top attractions for those attending this early autumn fair.

“It’s a pretty good-sized event when weather conditions are right,” said Scott Richardson, communications director for the Laudholm Trust.

And boy, were they right: With bright skies and nary a cloud in sight, families walked the reserve’s trails and traipsed across fields to catch a glimpse of traditional activities, from apple pressing to violin-making.

“It’s all about the traditional,” said Richardson.

For Grady, the sheep herding demonstrations hark back to the day he was inspired to learn this new skill. It was at a similar event, about nine years ago now, when Grady was a spectator, marveling at a shepherd’s ability to harness the instincts of his animals.

“It’s not so much training them as channeling that instinct,” said Grady.

A dog can be trained to perform the correct sheep herding commands by about 2 1/2 years old, he said, although a sheep dog is typically in his or her prime between the ages of 4-8. It’s a passion Grady delights in sharing with others.

“I was interested in raising meat on pasture, and never looked back,” he said.

Richardson estimates that about 1,500 to 2,000 people attend the event each year, though that number has grown. Originally held in October, Punkinfiddle was moved to late September to coincide with National Estuaries Day, and between various tours, demonstrations and live music, he hopes people may learn about the importance of estuaries without sacrificing the fun of an agrarian fair.

“A lot of people don’t know what to expect,” he said. “There’s a lot of subtle ways the message sneaks in throughout the day.”

Casey Lockwood, who made the trip with his family from Portsmouth, N.H., said he wanted his children to experience something they would never encounter in the city.

“It exposes them to something that’s more connected to nature than I think they’re used to,” said Lockwood. “Farm life is interesting. I just think this area has a tradition of supporting this kind of environment, and this kind of life.”

Alpacas, which have arguably become emblematic of that kind of life, were stirring about in their pen when Erin Bayly approached them with her 3-year-old daughter, Clover. The family drove down from Gorham to see the animals and hear some traditional live music, and Bayly ”“ visiting Punkinfiddle for the first time ”“ was pleased that the fair made nature and tradition its primary focus.

“We were looking for something nice to do ”“ a nice, peaceful event ”“ and this is it,” she said. “I like the message. I hope people are trying to get more connected to nature and agriculture.”

— Staff Writer Jeff Lagasse can be contacted at 282-1535, ext. 319 or jlagasse@journaltribune.com.