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Sandwich shop Sparta Sips & Subs is set to open Thursday at 7 Mill St. in Freeport.

The restaurant, named for owner and Freeport’s Spartan Sea Farms kelp and oyster farmer Ken Sparta, will serve sandwiches like Maine Italians, New Orleans muffulettas and smoked pollock sandwiches and — come fall — a prized vegetarian chili. But the sandwich Sparta sounds most excited about is the kelp-based Philly cheesesteak. “It’s outstanding,” said Sparta, a one-time vegetarian. “Is it a Philly cheesesteak? No. But does it remind you of a Philly cheesesteak? Absolutely.” (The restaurant’s general manager, perhaps not incidentally, grew up in Cherry Hill, a New Jersey suburb just across the Delaware River from Philadelphia.)

For the next couple of weeks, Sparta Sips & Subs will be open only from Thursday to Sunday. “We wanted a little bit of time to catch any kinks,” Sparta said. After that, the plan is to be open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. The food is available for takeaway, and the “beautiful, historical building,” which dates to 1888, has room to seat 14 people. Beer, wine and canned cocktails are also on offer.

Sparta also runs the Freeport Oyster Bar in a building owned by the Freeport Historical Society.

Peggy is the editor of the Food & Dining section and the books page at the Portland Press Herald. Previously, she was executive editor of Cook’s Country, a Boston-based national magazine published...

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