Three of us awoke to the amenities of Wigwams Camp. Ken Gordon, Eggman DeCoster and I had reserved the cabin for the first night of our three-day trip on Mopang Stream and the Machias River.

Owned by Downeast Salmon Federation, the cabin is located at the bottom of the first of four challenging whitewater rapids on the Machias River called the Wigwams. Instead of a rudimentary tent site, we enjoyed the comforts of propane lights and stove, and a woodstove with firewood. The timing of the reservation was fortuitous as we experienced a long, exhausting descent of Mopang Stream the day before, and the temperature dropped below freezing during the night.

Mopang Stream was a new and formidable experience for us. The estimated 24-mile day included numerous blowdowns and obstructions, unexpectedly difficult rapids and a lower-than-desirable water level. Now we were in familiar surroundings on a high-volume river with exciting whitewater well-known to us.

Recuperating from the demanding Mopang Stream descent, we took our time organizing for the day’s paddle. A leisurely breakfast allowed time for the sun to climb high into the sky and the temperature to rise to a toasty, warm level.

We launched two expedition kayaks and a canoe at the foot of First Wigwam. After some easy rapids, we entered Second Wigwam on the right and negotiated around a trio of wide ledges to a pool at the bottom.

Third Wigwam was next. Since there is steep, river-wide pitch part way through the rapid, we stopped at the portage trail on the left to scout. Narrow passageways free of significant obstructions were located in the center and on the left of the precipitous ledge drop. Approaches to both were complicated by large waves, rocks and some holes. We concluded left would be an easier route to follow. A good choice; we all had successful runs in loaded boats.

Fourth Wigwam awaited around the next bend. Since it was relatively easy to boat scout, we navigated through a feisty wave train left-center.

Several miles of flat water followed to a bridge at the top of Upper Holmes Falls, a dangerous 15-foot waterfall. We carried left on a good portage trail and explored camping options.

Although lacking the posh accommodations of the previous night, we located a campsite with plenty of tent space, a fire ring and an abundance of driftwood waiting to be cut. A peaceful evening followed sitting around the campfire. We were in our sleeping bags prior to the arrival of several showers during the night.

The sun was shining when we crawled out of our tents well after daybreak. The sun was particularly welcome on this morning since it provided the opportunity to dry our tents while cooking and eating breakfast.

We loaded boats and embarked in slack water. The half-mile between Upper and Lower Holmes Falls is a unique, canyon-like environment. Above Lower Holmes Falls, in the center of the river, is Deadman’s Island where there is a monument erected in memory of an early pioneer, Obadiah Hill.

Skirting along the right side of the island, we paddled down a pushy rapid into a moving current immediately above the falls. Hurriedly ferrying to the right shore, the narrow boulder-strewn cataract that often accumulates obstructions required careful inspection.

With the exception of a fallen tree on the right at the beginning, the falls was free of debris. We set up safety with throw bags and descended one boat at a time. The complicated route entailed plunging over a ledge drop just to the left of the fallen tree, punching through a channel-wide hole and then weaving around submerged boulders to the bottom of the twisting passage. We completed the complex rapid with minimal difficulties.

The remainder of our voyage was 9 miles of primarily flat water. We passed the mouth of Old Stream and a scenic sector of quick water called Getchell Rips on our way to the takeout at Smith Landing.

Our expedition was one of extremes. Day one was an endurance test in a tiny stream replete with a multitude of exciting adversities followed by two days of exhilarating big water paddling.

My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” narrates five more exceptional Maine river trips.

Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals — New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.