YARMOUTH — Woodhull Public House had recently joined my rotation of low-key, hassle-free options for dinner out when the pandemic hit and, soon after, it closed for good.
But my sadness over losing a spot with solid food, a fun atmosphere and a parking lot came with some hope. The news of the closure in June was accompanied by the announcement that Locally Sauced would be taking over the place. There was a chance that many of the things I appreciated about Woodhull would remain. For one, there would still be tacos.
I’d ordered some Mexican-ish things off Locally Sauced’s menu through its takeout window at the Bissell Brothers tasting room at Thompson’s Point, and the food never disappointed as something to snack on over a couple of beers. When it opened on Forest Falls Drive in Yarmouth in August, I checked out the menu and was pleased to see a selection of burrito bowls, as well as barbecue.
One weekend in September, when in search of a lunch that would likely be the highlight of the day, it seemed giving Locally Sauced a try would fulfill the need for both sustenance and an activity.
Bright blue tables were set up all over the patio in front of the restaurant and the lawn beside it. My lunch date and I chose a high-top near a heater, though it wasn’t on, and on this bright but brisk day, it could have been.
Curious how the cocktails would compare to the ones I’d enjoyed at Woodhull, I ordered the gin and house fresca ($9) and was more than pleased. Other adult beverages include margaritas, hard lemonade and several local craft beers on draft and in cans.
My lunch date was set on getting the burrito bowl ($14), so I went with my other option, the umami bowl ($16), both concerned and excited about the fact that it came “drizzled in a house-made poblano pepper broth.” I’m a big soup fan, but I’ve never had a bowl like this with broth.
The slight soupiness only added to the flavor and tenderness of the chicken and sauteed onions without interfering with the fresh greens and avocado as I feared it might. (And was that chicken tender.) The portion was perfect for lunch. It’s $2 more on the slightly larger dinner menu, and I imagine sized accordingly.
The friendly, attentive service gave me more hope that the atmosphere inside might eventually live up to lively vibe Woodhull had. Although the restaurant recently opened to indoor dining, there’s no way to re-create the fun of a pre-pandemic neighborhood pub yet, but when it can be done, I will be there.
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