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AN L.L. BEAN EMPLOYEE creates leather cuts on a computer system, which form the basic outline for the Bean Boots. The work is being done at the Brunswick manufacturing facility.
AN L.L. BEAN EMPLOYEE creates leather cuts on a computer system, which form the basic outline for the Bean Boots. The work is being done at the Brunswick manufacturing facility.
BRUNSWICK

In a world where many companies are turning to machines for the entirety of the labor process, the L.L. Bean manufacturing facility in Brunswick employs 475 workers who have a hand in nearly every aspect of Bean Boot production, from felt design to sewing seams to final packaging.

L.L. BEAN WORKERS Cindy Morse, left, and Jenny James at the Brunswick facility. Morse has been an employee for 23 years, while James started on Aug. 1 of this year.
L.L. BEAN WORKERS Cindy Morse, left, and Jenny James at the Brunswick facility. Morse has been an employee for 23 years, while James started on Aug. 1 of this year.
Some workers have been there for nearly 40 years and watched as Bean Boots have risen in popularity while remaining nearly identical in design for 100 years. Others are just joining, working through the months-long training process and learning all things Bean Boot. But whether a rookie or a seasoned veteran, L.L. Bean employees take pride in their work.

STACKS OF different leather cuts for use as Bean Boots.
STACKS OF different leather cuts for use as Bean Boots.
Cindy Morse, who has worked at the factory for 23 years, said it didn’t take long for her to feel at home and move up in the hierarchy there.

“I started out doing assembly work, then moved up to packing, and then to vamping, where I am today,” said Morse.

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Vamping is the integral sewing process of the boot, where a three-needle machine is used to stitch the rubber bottom of the boot to the leather on top.

“There’s no pressure any more, I’m used to vamping,” said Morse. “It feels comfortable and automatic. I take pride in it.”

AN L.L. BEAN employee sews leather cuts together, a step in the Bean Boot process.
AN L.L. BEAN employee sews leather cuts together, a step in the Bean Boot process.
Even though she’s one of the more experienced vampers in the factory, no one is perfect.

“I think vamping is one of the most challenging aspects because you can ruin a boot so easily,” said Morse. “I ruined a lot starting out, but now I’m down to about five (dud boots) a week.”

Mac McKeever, senior public relations representative at L.L. Bean, stressed that vamping is perhaps the most important step in the creation of Bean Boots.

AN L.L. BEAN employee sizes a pair of Bean Boots.
AN L.L. BEAN employee sizes a pair of Bean Boots.
“The boots are known for their three-stitch vamping design,” said McKeever. “It’s what helps them stay so durable, and helps them stay waterproof.”

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Morse said that she has a hand in crafting 400 pairs of boots per day, and that in 2016 alone she has helped create an astonishing 54,000 pairs.

There are about 10 steps required to create a boot, and each boot passes through two dozen sets of hands during an average production time of 45 minutes. The factory churns out 2,800 to 3,000 pairs of boots every day — with three-quarters filling online orders and the remainder being split between phone orders and retail shipments.

JENNY JAMES checks over finished Bean Boots before packing them.
JENNY JAMES checks over finished Bean Boots before packing them.
“The popularity of these boots has been a pleasant dilemma,” said McKeever. “We don’t want to disappoint our customers, so we’re really doing a great job this year with investments in employees and equipment.”

One of the newest members of the Bean Boot assembly team is Jenny James, who started working at the factory in early August.

“It’s definitely a situation where you come in and everybody accepts you,” said James, who has been training in the packing department since her first day. “This is the only place I know of that has one-on-one training throughout the entire training process. As you get better, there are check-ins and people at your fingertips if you have questions. It’s remarkable to have somebody walk you through the training.”

James said her job seemed daunting during the first week, but thanks to excellent training and a positive and helpful team of workers around her, she soon felt at home.

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“To think back to the first few days, I’m like ‘whoa, I was really unsure if I was able to do this job,’” said James. “But now I just do it and it’s pretty amazing.”

James is the last to see the boots before they are packed and shipped away to various retail and shipping centers.

“After Cindy vamps (the boots), there is someone who laces them and then they come to me in packing,” said James. “I check them over for any compromises, and if they’re ready to go, I give them a quick wipe and put them in the box. I’m the last person to see them before they ship out.”

Though workers are asked to keep up a productive pace, speed isn’t what defines a proficient worker, Morse said.

“We always say quality first, and then your speed automatically comes,” said Morse. “Jenny fits right in. My advice to her is to keep doing what she’s doing.”

The Bean Boots’ minimalist look that has remained virtually unchanged for a century hasn’t stayed that way by accident.

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“The boots are hand-sewn and have been for over 100 years,” said McKeever. “Except for some advancements in rubber production and different cuts of leather, they look remarkably the same as they did back then.”

Though the long-tenured employees are what keep the quality and integrity going inside the factory, L.L. Bean’s training program can be credited for finding and training new workers to take the reigns as the company barrels headlong into a prosperous future.

“Learning this trade and being able to do it well — quickly and safely — is the biggest thing I’ve learned,” said James. “As you’re learning the steps and your knowledge of the job grows, it becomes comfortable. (The trainers and co-workers) just fill you with knowledge and the rest comes with it. It’s a team effort. Everybody supports everybody.”

As James nears the end of her training, she is looking forward to the moment that ushers all new workers into seniority.

“When you complete your training, there’s a graduation day where everyone in the factory cheers for you,” James said. “I’m almost there.”

bgoodridge@timesrecord.com


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