I was absent last week due to a cold and, to make up for it, I really wanted to make something special for you folks, this week.
 
I tickled with the idea of a roasted beef tenderloin, smothered in butter and herbs and drowned in a red wine reduction — true, impressive, dinner party fare. But when the butcher at Whole Foods handed me a $64 piece of meat, I politely declined.
 
That’s when my imagination took me down the path less-expensive: pork tenderloin. It’s far cheaper than beef tenderloin, the mother cut for the beloved — and bank-breaking — filet mignon, can still be found in natural varieties and is a cinch to prepare.
 
I’ve taken inspiration from an Italian porchetta, a rich dish comprised of a whole deboned, rolled pig stuffed with layers of rosemary, white wine, garlic and fennel. It’s a staple of Italian regional cuisine, but I definitely don’t have room in my small (third-floor) Portland apartment for a whole pig. Tenderloin, however, works wonderfully as a vehicle for the flavors of porchetta.
 
When it comes to pork, it can often be dry. I’ve taken a page out of Melissa Clark’s book — you all know I love her — and stuffed my pork tenderloin with a sweet and savory combination of caramelized onions, fennel and garlic, coated with olive oil, to keep the interior of the meat moist. A savory rub of herbs and oil on the outside browns the skin but keeps the flesh tender underneath.

This recipe has a few steps, but nothing complicated. You can make the filling ahead of time, if you like, and the entirety of the prep work can be done the night before you serve the dish, including marinating the tenderloin.
 
While smaller than a beef tenderloin, a pork tenderloin is nothing less entertaining. Feel free to double the recipe to accommodate making two roasts if you wish to serve a larger party. And don’t be afraid to change up the herbs and filling, either. Be the master of your own domain: the same method would work well with a fruity filling, such as apple or pineapple, or something else savory — perhaps Chinese five-spice or curried vegetables.
 
It’s up to you, but I have confirmation this dish here is a winner.
 
“I love this, and I don’t even like pork,” exclaimed my boyfriend, Kyle — my resident recipe-tester — in between bites.
 
Maybe I’m just that good. But with this recipe, you can be, too.
 
— Staff Writer Alan Bennett can be contacted at 282-1535, ext. 329 or abennett@journaltribune.com.
 
Porchetta-inspired pork tenderloin
Time: 3 hours (1 hour active)
Serves: 3-4
 
1 ½ pounds pork tenderloin
½ medium yellow onion, finely diced
1 small fennel bulb, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, finely-chopped
3 tablespoons fennel fronds, finely chopped
4 tablespoons rosemary, finely chopped
2 tablespoons sage leaves, finely chopped
½ teaspoon chile flakes
6 tablespoons white wine
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
1 teaspoon kosher salt, more as needed
1 teaspoon freshly-ground black pepper
⅓ cup plus two tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
2 tablespoons butter
Lemon wedges, for cooking and serving
 
In a large skillet over medium heat, heat two tablespoons olive oil until shimmering. Cook the onions and fennel until softened and translucent, then add one clove of garlic and reduce the heat to low. Cook 10 minutes, stirring every few, until onions begin to caramelize, adding more oil as the pan becomes dry. Remove from heat and allow to cool.
 
Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor, pulse the remaining one clove of garlic, fennel fronds, rosemary, sage, chile flakes, two tablespoons of white wine, lemon zest and salt and pepper until a coarse, sandy mixture forms. Add the remaining 1/3 cup olive oil and blend until the mixture forms a thick paste.
 
Butterfly the pork tenderloin by laying it flat on a cutting board. Find the center of the pork and, using a sharp chef’s knife, slicing the pork most of the way through, but not completely. It should fold open like a book when you’re done. Cover with plastic wrap and use a mallet, heavy skillet or rolling pin to flatten the meat until mostly even in thickness.
 
Stuff the tenderloin with the caramelized onion and fennel mixture, gently folding the meat over the filling to avoid spilling, and seal with toothpicks or kitchen twine, an inch apart. If one end of the tenderloin is particularly thinner than the other, fold it up onto the thicker portion and seal with twine or a toothpick.
 
Place the stuffed tenderloin into a large bowl and rub the herb paste all over until totally covered. Marinate, covered, in the fridge for at least two hours, or preferably overnight, removing from the fridge one hour before roasting.
 
When ready to roast, heat oven to 350 degrees and place a roasting tray or oven-safe skillet over medium-high heat. Slick the pan with olive oil and place pork into the skillet to sear the bottom. Drizzle remaining marinade over the roast and bake 25-30 minutes until mostly opaque (a little pink is fine) and remove. It should reach 145 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Cover with aluminum foil and allow to rest 10 minutes while you prepare the sauce.
 
Place the skillet or roasting pan over medium-high heat and add remaining four tablespoons wine to deglaze the bottom. Reduce until little liquid is left in the pan. Turn heat to low and add the butter, swirling pan to gently melt. Adjust seasoning if necessary.
 
When ready to serve, remove twine or toothpicks and slice tenderloin into 1-inch rounds, topped with a generous drizzle of sauce. Enjoy with risotto, sautéed vegetables or a crunchy salad.