4 min read
A kayaker passes under a Belfast Rail Trail bridge on the Passagassawakeag River. (Ron Chase photo)

I’ve been contemplating an exploration of the lower Passagassawakeag River to Head of Tide in Belfast for several years. Known to most as the “Passy,” in years past, I participated in three downriver races on an upper section of the Passagassawakeag. During my last race, I met the late Skip Pendleton who was helping with race safety. A fellow Chowderhead with the Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society (PPCS), Skip and I became good friends and frequent paddling companions.

During our paddling adventures, Skip often spoke of volunteer work he was doing building trails along the lower Passy and paddling excursions he had completed in that area. Skip passed away in 2017, and I never had the opportunity to paddle the lower Passy or hike the Belfast trails with him.

Four years ago, my wife, Nancy, and I walked the Belfast Rail Trail along the Passy when I was recuperating from hip surgery. We were gratified to find a memorial to Skip and his wife, Jo, commemorating their efforts to develop the rail trail and a trail network in nearby Head of Tide Nature Preserve.

Recently, two frequent paddling companions reported completion of a 6-mile sea kayak outing from the landing in Belfast Harbor to Head of Tide and back. I had postponed that adventure for far too long, so I decided to organize a PPCS trip.

After identifying a warm, sunny day with a moderate sea breeze predicted, I announced a lower Passy paddling excursion. A weekday, only one Chowderhead, Henry Bodkin, was available to join me.

We met at the bustling Belfast Harbor boat landing on a beautiful, sunny afternoon. A sea breeze from the southwest was stronger than forecasted. We navigated solo sea kayaks between a multitude of recreational and commercial vessels moored in the harbor and out into the bay.

Advertisement

The tailwind, coupled with an incoming tide, helped propel us in a northwesterly direction as we traveled under the Route 1 bridge and into the mouth of the Passy. This area is replete with stately old homes and sites of past waterfront activity.

The river narrowed as we progressed farther northwest. Cyclists and walkers could be seen on the Belfast Rail Trail high on the west bank.

Henry Bodkin arrives at Head of Tide in Belfast on the Passagassawakeag River. (Ron Chase photo)

Both shorelines were largely undeveloped as we proceeded farther upriver. At a major river junction, we accidentally made an erroneous right turn. Ending in a cul-de-sac, we backtracked to the left turn and immediately kayaked under a former railroad bridge that is now part of the Belfast Rail Trail.

Beyond the bridge, the surrounding land is completely undeveloped. We soon passed a trail overlook along the western shoreline that marks the northern boundary of Head of Tide Nature Preserve.

After entering a swampy area, we encountered a sizeable island that divides the increasingly shallow river. We selected the right channel, which soon ended in a maze of swamp grass.

Following a return to the island, we pursued additional exploration in the left passage. A circuitous route led us to head of tide where a fallen tree prevented further navigation. Immediately above head of tide, the summer-long drought has resulted in a mere trickle of water where there would normally be a whitewater rapid.

Advertisement

During our return, we stopped to chat with two walkers crossing the rail trail bridge. Interested in replicating our paddling expedition, they inquired about the experience. Our response must have been encouraging because they are planning an attempt in the near future.

When turning southeast at the river junction, we met a man rowing a dory as he escorted several teenage girls swimming upriver. The girls appeared to be having a most excellent adventure. The rower reported his charges were a group of friends enjoying a swim together. He was happily providing safety while using their outing as an opportunity to paddle the river.

The sea breeze had strengthened into a strong headwind when we approached the mouth of the river. We kayaked next to the west shore for shelter from the persistent gale.

During the last leg of the voyage, our close proximity to the coastline led us between dozens of vessels moored next to downtown Belfast. Boats were launching when we arrived at the busy landing, completing a PPCS trip that would have undoubtedly met with Skip’s enthusiastic approval.

My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” narrates 28 more paddling escapades on Maine rivers, streams, lakes and the ocean.

The author of “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals – New England,” Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” will soon be released by North Country Press. Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.

Comments are not available on this story. Read more about why we allow commenting on some stories and not on others.