
A sea kayak trip to Damariscove Island off the coast of East Boothbay has much to offer. During the 12-mile trip, paddlers pass some of the most spectacular island landscapes on the coast of Maine. And exciting paddling is almost guaranteed navigating through a collection of treacherous ledges on the southern end of the island called The Motions.
In addition to providing an exceptional paddling experience, the rugged, distant island has a fascinating history. Once kayakers arrive in the sheltered harbor, a network of trails maintained by Boothbay Region Land Trust pass the sites and foundations of structures dating as far back as early Colonial times, and one path leads to a lookout tower on the southeast side.
A voyage to the isolated harbor includes significant exposure to open water with little opportunity to land. So I study forecasts for weather, wind, seas and tides in an attempt to plan a safe trip. Past experience has convinced me that The Motions defy predictability; every tide level and wind direction seems to result in different challenging conditions.
I recently identified an excellent forecast for a Damariscove attempt. Light winds, warm temperatures and partly sunny skies were predicted, and the tides were generally favorable. Three frequent paddling companions agreed to join me on the outing.
Four of us met at a boat landing on Ocean Point at the southern end of Linekin Neck in East Boothbay. The seas were calm and the winds light — good omens for a successful trip.
We departed tranquil Grimes Cove in solo sea kayaks and set a course for tiny Ram Island and its prominent lighthouse approximately 1 mile south. While crossing the busy channel, we decided to travel along the west side of the islands that lead to remote Damariscove Harbor.
Two lobster boats were hauling traps as we passed the lighthouse and progressed south along predominantly barren mile-long Fisherman Island. The ragged shore on the northern end of Damariscove Island soon came into view.
Winds and seas remained calm as we completed the 1-mile traverse to Damariscove Island. Massive granite ledges dominate the western shore and a narrow isthmus separates the island into two sectors. The northern half, called Wood End, is a bird sanctuary and landing is prohibited. Attempting to land anywhere along the uncompromising shoreline except the harbor would be a hazardous endeavor.
Exploding waves could be seen as we approached the southwestern end of the island. The Motions were acting up as usual.
Progressing closer, swells crashing against the rocky coastline eliminated any hope of staying close to shore, and large irregular waves surging over ledges perhaps 100 yards offshore were equally unappealing. The source of numerous shipwrecks in the past, we carefully maneuvered through an opening between the two obstacles, aggressively paddled over some large swells and entered the calm harbor next to the former Coast Guard Lifesaving Station. Soon after, we landed on a gravel beach at the top of the harbor.
Over 400 years ago, a few English fishermen inhabited Damariscove year-round. They sent cod to the Pilgrims in Plymouth to prevent starvation, and by 1671, the island was a thriving outpost. In 1676, during the King Philips War, 300 survivors of Native American attacks along most of the Maine coast fled to the island for protection. Decades of violence continued. We decided to take a walk through history.
Trails begin at the beach. We hiked east through a narrow path in dense vegetation to steep cliffs and stopped for lunch. Afterwards, we trekked high on a hill to the lookout tower formerly used to scrutinize area seas in search of distressed vessels. While studying the same waters, we decided to exit the harbor east.
Large waves greeted us when departing the harbor. While climbing the rolling swells, we rounded the jagged southeast shoreline and began our journey north. We were immediately confronted with a new obstacle: choppy, unpredictable waves along the east side of Damariscove that continued for about 2 miles.
The turbulence finally subsided near Fisherman Island. Seas were calm for the remainder of our journey back to Ocean Point, completing a typically stimulating voyage to Damariscove.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” narrates eight more exciting sea kayak escapades on the Maine coast including spectacular trips along much of the imposing Mount Desert Island coastline.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals – New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.


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