
The Dead River near West Forks always offers a thrilling whitewater adventure. When relatively inexperienced paddlers take on the turbulent river navigating old-style boats, added excitement is guaranteed. That’s precisely what the Dead River Throwback Cruise recently delivered.
A celebration of old-time boats and gear, the Throwback Cruise has become an annual tradition for my outdoor club, the Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society (PPCS). Since 2017, club member Kyle Duckworth has organized the event. He selects the relatively low-level dam release of 1,800 cubic feet per second for the trip. However, prospective paddlers should not be misled; even at that modest level, the Dead River is a rollicking ride fraught with potential hazards.
As usual, I signed up for the cruise. I’m so old I automatically qualify as a throwback irrespective of my boat. As it happens, I regularly paddle a Dagger RPM kayak. First manufactured in 1996, the RPM is more than 25 years old, so it meets the throwback criteria — according to me. My RPM has so many scratches, dings and dents, it looks much older.

This year’s Throwback Cruise was scheduled for late June. After a seemingly endless stretch of rainy weather, we were finally the beneficiaries of a warm, sunny day with light winds. However, blackflies were out in full force. Fortunately, the nasty intruders weren’t much of a problem once we were on the water.
A large group of PPCS Chowderheads met at the public takeout on Dead River Road in West Forks. Swarms of blackflies feasted on us as we loaded over 30 boats onto two trailers provided by Ironbound Outdoors shuttle service. A vast array of whitewater vessels were used by our group that included solo canoes, tandem canoes, solo kayaks and inflatables. Once loaded, we climbed into two vans that transported the entire entourage 16 miles to the put-in where Spencer Stream joins the Dead River.
The put-in is always a chaotic scene. Paddlers organize boats, assemble gear, inflate their air bags, dress for whitewater, perform a variety of other tasks and launch their boats. Kyle announced that everyone should run the first rapid, Spencer Falls, and meet at the beach on the left immediately below for a safety talk.
Sixteen miles of almost continuous whitewater ensued. A tandem canoe team flipped and swam in big waves at the bottom of Spencer Falls. Club members quickly rescued the two paddlers and their boat, a scene that would be repeated several times during the day.
Once everyone was assembled at the beach, Kyle reviewed safety instructions and separated us into two groups so it was easier to account for paddlers. My group consisted of 15 boats. Since I was kayaking, my responsibility was to lead less experienced kayakers through the more difficult rapids. Another kayaker, Gary Cole, performed sweep duties.
Our group easily negotiated the first few rapids and then completed a problem-free descent of lengthy, more difficult Minefield. Shortly after, we stopped for lunch at Hayden’s Landing.

Following a long delay, the second group arrived and reported two time-consuming rescues had occurred, including a second mishap for the unfortunate tandem canoe team. A mile downriver, they aborted their trip and took off at the only alternative takeout called Gravel Pit.
After some easy whitewater below Gravel Pit, the difficulty of the rapids increased. Most of our crew successfully navigated through twisting Elephant Rock Rapid, but a kayaker accidentally paddled into a hydraulic and swam. Shortly after, another tandem canoe team capsized and had a long swim. In both cases, determined Chowderheads reunited boats and boaters.
Everyone flawlessly maneuvered through Mile Long, the longest rapid on the river. One more major obstacle remained, Lower Poplar Falls.
Arguably Class IV at any level, Lower Poplar is a challenge for most boaters. Predictably, a few of the less-experienced paddlers had difficulties, but club members were always there to help. At the bottom, everyone relaxed and enjoyed the remaining 2 miles of quick water.
While mishaps are an inherent part of the whitewater sport, paddlers know that mistakes are instructive and result in improved skills. And there is no better environment to experience whitewater problems then with fellow Chowderheads watching over you.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” narrates eight more exciting descents on the best whitewater rivers and streams in Maine.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals — New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.
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