I’m reading a memoir of a woman who ended up moving to Iceland after filming a documentary there in which she describes the arrival of her long-awaited things arriving in Eimskip shipping containers. There is much more to say about the book, “Raven’s Nest” by Sarah Thomas, but what struck me was the connection between Maine and Iceland. If you drive along the waterfront in Portland, you have likely seen these same Eimskip shipping containers stacked on the wharf at the International Marine Terminal at the far end of Commercial Street. The company moved its U.S. headquarters here in 2018 and transports goods across the Atlantic between Portland and Reykjavik on a regular basis. The largest of the ships that land there can carry more than 900 20-foot containers. Their cargo includes everything from dry goods to heavy machinery to seafood.
While Iceland and Maine are more than 2,000 miles apart and it takes a container ship more than a week to get from one port to the other, they share the same chilly Atlantic waters. And although Reykjavik is the world’s northernmost capital at 64 degrees in latitude (compared to Portland’s 43 degrees), the two locales are home to many of the same types of seafood. In addition to the fermented shark the country is famous for, there are also many species of groundfish there that we also have in Maine, like haddock, cod, monkfish and halibut. Similar dishes are served like a fish chowder, known as plokkfiskur, which is made with cream and potatoes. Fish and chips are another popular dish.
Commercial fishing in Iceland not only provides a significant contribution to the nation’s economy, but it is also a big part of its heritage. Like in New England, traditions abound in preserving fish. Some of these are more common and some more rare. Fermentation is one and not one I can say sounds very tasty. A more palatable technique is the drying of fish — something New Englanders don’t do much of anymore. Iceland is known for a fish jerky called harðfiskur that can be eaten on its own or with a smear of butter.
Another marine species common to Maine and Iceland is the Atlantic puffin (Fratercula arctica). Those are the chunky little black and white birds with orange bills that can often be seen gripped onto a small, silvery fish. They aren’t flightless like their penguin relatives, but they are certainly more efficient at “flying” underwater than through the air.
Having lived in Maine for nearly 20 years and explored the coast fairly thoroughly from south to north, I still have not seen a puffin in the wild. The closest I have come is at the St. Louis Zoo while visiting family there. Puffins are certainly more rare in Maine, as they are on the southernmost edge of their habitat at the northernmost parts of our state. They were also hunted here for a number of years, which put a toll on their population, particularly as they only produce one egg per season and don’t mature until they are several years old. In Iceland, however, puffins are so common that you can even find them on the menu in some places. I think I would stick to harðfiskur!
While Iceland seems at first glance to be a world away from Maine, the natural, cultural and economic connections are interesting to explore.
Susan Olcott is the director of strategic partnerships at Maine Coast Fishermen’s Association.
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