In the coming week, you’ll likely be preparing some kind of communal dish as part of the annual Thanksgiving festivities. You might be in charge of making a dessert, or you may be delegated the oh-so-fabulous task of arranging the cheese tray.

If you’re lucky — or unfortunate, it depends who you ask — you’ll be preparing the main event, the turkey.

But, if you ask me, I couldn’t care less about the bird. For me, side dishes are the best part of the Thanksgiving feast. There’s just such variety — from stuffing to squash and everything in between, the possibilities are endless.

My favorite, above all, are Brussels sprouts. Brussels sprouts were given a bad name back in the day because they were typically boiled until they turned brown, or steamed until mushy, and were notorious for perfuming the air with an odious aroma.

But today, they’ve seen a resurgence among the culinary elite, roasted with garlic until crisp, or pan-fried with bacon to perfection. I’ve chosen a combination of both methods to prepare my sprouts, which, though they omit bacon, are rich, indulgent and to me the star of any Thanksgiving meal.

When picking out Brussels sprouts, be sure to select ones that are bright green with little browning on the outer leaves. If you can get your hands on a stalk of sprouts, you’ll need to cut them off the branch with a small knife or pluck them off by hand. Remove any loose or brown outer leaves and give them a wash before slicing in half.

For my brandied Brussels sprouts with tarragon, I’ve pan-seared the sprouts cut-side down to caramelize them and get them extra crispy. Later, I add butter and Cognac (but you can use any type of brandy) and, because I can never leave well enough alone, set it on fire. 

Now, flambéing is optional, but fire is fun, and it does help to reduce the sauce. What you’re left with channels classic sauce béarnaise — sans egg yolks — but with the nuttiness of browned butter and a sweet complexity thanks to the liquor. With the addition of toasted hazelnuts, this side dish practically becomes a main course.

If you don’t wish to flambé, that’s fine. Just add the brandy and turn the heat back up to reduce the sauce. You can also leave the liquor out entirely — in that case, I’d recommend substituting an equal amount of lemon juice.

So, this Thanksgiving, brush off your Brussels sprouts bigotry and give the give the little buds the chance they deserve. You certainly won’t regret it.

— Staff Writer Alan Bennett can be contacted at 282-1535, ext. 329 or abennett@journaltribune.com.

Brandied tarragon Brussels sprouts with toasted hazelnuts
Start to finish: 30 minutes (30 minutes active)

Serves: 4

1 pound Brussels sprouts, washed and halved

1/4 cup fruity extra-virgin olive oil1 shallot, minced
1-2 teaspoons garlic, minced
2 tablespoons butter, cut into cubes
2 tablespoons Cognac or other brandy
1/4 cup chopped hazelnuts, toasted
1 tablespoon tarragon, finely chopped
1 teaspoon salt, more to taste
1 teaspoon coarsely-ground black pepper
2 teaspoons lemon zest, divided
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
Pinch red pepper flakes, more to taste
Lemon juice and wedges, for garnish

In a large, wide pan set over medium-low heat, toast the hazelnuts until golden brown and just fragrant. Watch them carefully; they’ll burn fast. Remove from the pan and set aside.

Wipe out the pan and place back on the burner, bringing the heat up to medium-high. Add the olive oil and heat until shimmering. Add the shallots and a generous pinch of salt and cook until translucent, about five minutes. Add the garlic, nutmeg and red pepper flakes and cook until fragrant.

Spread the mixture into an even layer and place the Brussels sprouts in the pan, cut-side down, and tightly put a lid on the pan. Let cook for five to 10 minutes, checking after five, until the sprouts are bright green and tender-crisp, and the cut-side is seared and caramelized.

Keeping the pan on the burner, turn off the heat and scatter the butter over the Brussels sprouts and allow it to slowly melt. Add half the lemon zest and toss to combine.

If flambéing, remove the pan from the burner and pour in the Cognac or brandy. Ignite with a long match or grill lighter and allow the flames to settle. Add the tarragon, black pepper and reserved toasted hazelnuts and toss to combine.

Pour out onto a large serving dish and garnish with remaining lemon zest, additional tarragon leaves and a big squeeze of fresh lemon juice. Serve immediately, or keep warm in an oven until dinner time.