There’s a wonderful family of six that has recently welcomed the newest and tiniest addition to their household into the world, and I’ve had the privilege of making delivered dinners for them while they nest, sleep, recover, adjust and evolve into their new form.
When they contacted me to ask if I could do this for them, I furnished them with a menu of about 50 meals from which to choose.
What they chose was interesting to me, and also made perfect sense. Most families for whom I cook choose the more adventurous meals that they wouldn’t necessarily make for themselves, thinking (I assume) that if they are going to spring for a professional chef, whether for a day or a month, the meals had better be what they can’t or wouldn’t do for themselves.
So did this family choose the shrimp, asparagus and corn with lime and chipotle? Nope. Did they choose the Thai sweet potato soup with coconut basmati rice? Nope.
The creamy chicken, mushroom and caramelized onion fettuccini was one of about 10 total and absolute comfort meals that they chose. All were approachable and straightforward, with nothing reaching or spicy. Makes sense, given a nursing mama with a new baby. Makes sense with a family adjusting to a new life and the order of their days shifting to a new rhythm.
What their choice emphasized for me is how food can be so elemental and nourishing, not just on a physical level, but on an emotional level.
There are many times when we need ease, soothing, care and comfort, and it can’t be gotten with shrimp cocktail over grapefruit and fennel gratina or some such thing. It’s the mac and cheese, chicken and dumplings, chicken and noodle soup level that reaches us all.
I hope this recipe, when re-created in your home, gives you some measure of the same – ease, comfort, nourishment.
CREAMY CHICKEN, MUSHROOM AND CARAMELIZED ONION FETTUCCINI
This is a perfect recipe for a day or two after roasting a whole chicken. Should you not have the advantage of leftover chicken, use 1 to 1 1/2 pounds of uncooked boneless chicken tenders, breasts or thighs. The tenders won’t require slicing, and the breasts or thighs should be sliced about 1/4-inch thick. Add at the same time as the mushrooms.
1 pound fettuccini
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 cups sliced onions, about 3 small to medium onions
10 ounces sliced mushrooms, about 4 cups sliced
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
Several grinds fresh black pepper
1/2 cup white wine
1 cup heavy cream
3 cups cooked chicken, pulled into 1-inch pieces
1/2 cup grated Parmesan
Follow the instructions for the pasta and begin cooking once the wine has been added to the sauce. Heat the oil in a large saute pan over medium-high heat, and add the onions.
Saute the onions for 20 minutes, reducing heat when the pan begins to brown slightly. When the onions are fully tender and golden brown, add the mushrooms, salt and pepper, and saute for another 5 minutes. Add the wine and bring to a boil. Add the heavy cream and bring to a boil again.
Add the chicken, stir well to coat, and serve over pasta with Parmesan as a garnish.
Servings: Four to six.
Anne Mahle of Rockland is the author of “At Home, At Sea.” She can be reached at: chefannie@mainewindjammer.com
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