OK, now I’m finally grilled out. It’s time to turn back to the stove and oven and cook food that you can stir and whose bubbling aromas perfume the kitchen – such as these applesauce-flavored meatballs that simmer in a simple and easy sauce. Spoon the meatballs over buttered egg noodles and serve this crisp, crunchy salad on the side.

LITTLE MEATBALLS WITH APPLESAUCE GRAVY

Although I don’t usually cook with many packaged ingredients, condensed tomato soup is one of the exceptions. The soup can be an excellent basis for some sauces, as it is here in this savory little meatball recipe from my mother-in-law’s files. The sauce is sharpened with a bit of vinegar to balance the sweetness of the applesauce and soup base.

Servings: 4

1 pound ground “meatloaf mix” (beef, pork and veal)

1/2 cup crushed cornflake crumbs

1/2 cup unsweetened applesauce, plus 1/4 cup

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 egg

1 teaspoon dried thyme, plus 1/2 teaspoon

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 (103/4 ounce) can condensed tomato soup

1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar

In a large bowl, combine ground meat, cornflake crumbs, 1/2 cup of applesauce, onion, garlic, egg, 1 teaspoon thyme, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly and shape into about 30 1-inch meatballs.

In a very large skillet with a lid or a Dutch oven, whisk together the soup, remaining 1/4 cup applesauce, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon thyme. Whisk in 1 cup of water. Bring the sauce mixture to a simmer. Drop meatballs into the sauce. Return to a simmer, cover, and cook over medium-low heat until meatballs are no longer pink inside, about 30 minutes.

Skim off and discard any excess fat that has risen to the surface. Stir in the vinegar, and serve.

CRISP SALAD WITH CREAMY VINAIGRETTE

Servings: 4

CREAMY VINAIGRETTE:

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1/3 cup olive oil

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

SALAD:

1 small head romaine

1 celery rib, thinly sliced

1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion

1/2 cup imported green olives

1/2 cup seeded and diced tomato

In a small bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise and vinegar. Whisk in the olive oil and season with salt and pepper to taste.

Slice the lettuce crosswise into 3/4-inch pieces. Place in a serving bowl and toss with the celery. Scatter with onions, olives and finally with the tomato. Drizzle with dressing and serve.

Brooke Dojny is author or co-author of more than a dozen cookbooks, most recently “Dishing Up Maine” (Storey Publishing 2006) and “The New England Clam Shack Cookbook” (Storey 2008). She lives on the Blue Hill peninsula.