There is great wave surfing at Quattro on the Dead River. Ron Chase photos
My initial descent of the Dead River was in June 1986. It was love at first paddle. In the intervening years, I’ve returned with friends and family over 200 times. For me and many others, the excitement and allure of the Dead never gets old.
Beginning in small lakes and ponds in western Maine, the north and south branches of the Dead converge at Flagstaff Lake in Stratton. What currently constitutes the lake was once a calm section of the Dead River that meandered circuitously for 20 miles, hence the name “Dead.” In 1950, Long Falls Dam was built, forming the lake. The dam regulates flow primarily for hydropower purposes downriver on the Kennebec. An added benefit, 18 planned releases varying from 1,300-6,000 cubic feet per second (CFS) provide whitewater throughout the dry summer months. As a result, the Dead has become a mecca for enthusiastic boaters in search of paddling thrills and spills.
No organization frequents the Dead more often than the Penobscot Paddle & Chowder Society. Each year, the club schedules several trips to take advantage of 16 miles of almost continuous Class I through Class IV whitewater that ends when it joins the Kennebec River in The Forks.
This spring, Brent Elwell coordinated an 1,800 CFS Dead trip during Memorial Day weekend, and Ken Gordon followed with a weekend of 4,000 and 2,400 CFS trips in early June. I participated in all three.
Trip Leader Ken Gordon navigates big waves on Minefield at 4,000 CFS.
Surprisingly, only five kayakers signed up for Brent’s trip. A sunny, seasonably warm day, weather wasn’t the issue. I suspect the presence of an abundance of unwelcome blackflies were the reason. I came prepared with a balaclava and head net. They were a menace near the shore but only a minor inconvenience on the river.
Our day began at Webb’s Campground in West Forks. Owners Andy and Kim Webb operate a shuttle transporting paddlers to the put-in where Spencer Stream joins the Dead 16 miles upriver. Andy and his dad, Edmund, before him have been running the shuttle for decades. Kayaks were loaded on his boat trailer, and we climbed into the van for a bumpy ride on rough dirt roads to the top.
When we arrived at the put-in, two boaters were already preparing to launch. Navigating a canoe and an inflatable boat, they would be the only other paddlers we would see on the river.
The Dead starts out with a burst of excitement at Spencer Rips. Even at 1,800 CFS, the rapid ends with sizeable breaking waves. Everyone in our group successfully negotiated the challenging rollers, setting a positive tone for the remainder of the outing.
The Dead is a succession of exciting whitewater challenges. We surfed waves at Quattro, maneuvered around numerous holes on Minefield and descended complex Hayden’s Falls. After lunch at the mouth of Enchanted Stream, we traversed waves around Elephant Rock, enjoyed more surfing at Horsefly Rips and completed a lengthy cruise through complicated Mile Long.
Spruce Ledge Rapid and several easier sections of whitewater led to the beginning of Poplar Falls. We chose a left-to-right route on Upper Poplar that avoided several holes and pour-overs. Lower Poplar is the most difficult rapid on the river at all water levels. Everyone in our group challenged the robust wave train on the left at the top and then boat scouted through a maze of obstacles in the long run-out. Our odyssey on the Dead was a success for all.
Cold, raw, wet, windy weather were obstacles throughout the subsequent Dead River weekend. The 4,000 CFS flow is considered to be Class III/IV in difficulty. Our group consisted of several solo kayakers, four inflatable boats and a one canoeist. Everything is bigger and pushier at 4,000. We enjoyed a problem-free journey.
Two tandem canoe teams coupled with several solo canoeists and kayakers braved the 2,400 release. Similar but slightly more difficult than 1,800, this trip was interrupted by a couple of swims. The second in Lower Poplar required a significant rescue effort. No problem for swift water rescue-trained Chowderheads. Boat and paddler were safely reunited.
Three Dead River voyages completed, several more are anticipated in the coming weeks. The thrilling paddling on the Dead never ceases to entertain.
My book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine,” narrates another exciting Dead River descent and eight more Maine whitewater escapades.
Ron Chase resides in Topsham. His latest book, “Maine Al Fresco: The Fifty Finest Outdoor Adventures in Maine” is available at northcountrypress.com/maine-al-fresco or in bookstores and through online retailers. His previous books are “The Great Mars Hill Bank Robbery” and “Mountains for Mortals – New England.” Visit his website at ronchaseoutdoors.com or he can be reached at ronchaseoutdoors@comcast.net.
A kayaker breaks through the waves on Spencer Rapid on the Dead.
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